Love the site! I had a question about one of your Civil War figures - who makes the soldier firing the pistol in the defense of Fredericksburg diorama?
Hi Joe,
Your dioramas are amazing. Thanks for sharing them. I paint and sell my own soldiers and toy soldier kits. Would you mind putting a link to my site if like it. www.shoptoysoldiers.com
Sure.. let's exchange links.. thanks mate! - Joe C
Tinytoys says... Hello Joe,
We are a toy stor based in Australia. I stumbled upon your site and find it informative. I was wondering if you would consider including it in your links page? Let me know if you would like a link back from our site to yours.
Really appreciate your time. Toys Australia - http://www.tinytoys.com.au
We are a toy stor based in Australia. I stumbled upon your site and find it informative. I was wondering if you would consider including it in your links page? Let me know if you would like a link back from our site to yours.
Really appreciate your time. Toys Australia - http://www.tinytoys.com.au
Tauryx, I usually use an undercoat of latex primer spray paint before painting then finish with Citadel or Wargame Workshops matte spray. The latex undercoat is flexible with the plastic parts like gun barrels and bayonets and then I use latex paints for the figures uniform etc., then end with the matte spray (Shake well and use at the proper temperature,,and not in too humid or well weather..otherwise the final step could turn "milky" and mess up all your work). This combination gives you the best adhesion to the plastic figure, protection of your paint job, and with the matte spray providing protection for those latex painted surfaces from the elements and finger prints/acid/oils etc. Of course, before you start any spraying or painting, you have to thoroughly clean the surfaces of the figure and remove any remaining "release agent" (that's the silicone or other material used in the mold process in order for the machine to release the figure from the mold.) That is perhaps the most important step of all. Otherwise the later paint will never "stick" to the figure and could either not adhere in the first place or more disappointingly, flake sometime soon after you've completed the figure..letting all your good work go to waste. I hope this helps. Best of success with your painting. Let me know if yholu need other information...glad to help, partner! - Joe Carvalho
Hey. glad to see the site still growing all these years! great work as usual. One question: what do you use as sealant (if any) for the paint job on your figures? I have been using a spar urethane protectant I get at home depot. It leaves a gloss finish and then I use a testors flat coat for the natural realistic finish. It is not 100% but still better than anything I have used previous. I am always looking for something that will keep those barrel tips, bayonets etc from cracking paint.
thanks for the continuous inspiration. My son is almost seven and I have been getting him into the hobby. It is a great way to have fun and learn a little history at the same time.
I sell sets of hand-painted figures and scenic material fro people to assembler their own dioramas. But I only sell groups of figures , rather than ones and twos etc. The price depends upong the time period..Roman, 18th Century, and Napoleonic figures, and mounted knights being the most difficult to paint. I have to develop special quotes on pricing depending upon what a client wants. - Joe Carvalho
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